All of us like to make progress as each week, month or year passes. There would be very few who enjoy the impending feeling of going backwards, or regressing.

After spending several weeks in various parts of Thailand I’ve come to the conclusion that the country has unfortunately regressed in many aspects.

I’m of the opinion that it has regressed politically, democratically, socially, economically and environmentally.

Politically, it does not need to be spelt out following the recent uprising in Bangkok. It then follows, that democratically, the government imposed on the country by the military and the Bangkok elite does not in any way practice democracy. It is unelected, autocratic and therefore it cannot be said it is representative of the people of Thailand.

Socially, the Kingdom has gone backwards and in some provinces quite markedly. The fissures that have always been present in Thai society deepened into an awning chasm with the Bangkok uprising.

Economically, there are two Thailands. One is the world of the rich and powerful and the well connected and the other is of the majority of the people who do not share the country’s considerable national income.

Environmentally, I was appalled to see huge tracts of forest and jungle in the central plains and northern Thailand being cleared for housing, industry and other plans.

Then the authorities scratch their heads and wonder why so much of Thailand is experiencing drought. It shouldn’t be hard to fathom when huge tracts of land containing mature trees and other species are obliterated in a matter of months.

In speaking with a number of locals in various places throughout the Kingdom, it soon became obvious that there is a simmering resentment towards the government in Bangkok and their military masters.

One of their deepest concerns is the current constitution review committee, which they believe has been set up by the current government and the military to ensure that no other political party apart from the misnamed Democrats can gain power again.

Many of the people we spoke with over a period of almost two months were in some way connected with Thailand’s once booming tourism sector.

During our recent time in Thailand it was obvious that the dramatic drop in tourism numbers had resulted in a devastating economic impact on hotels, transport, restaurants, shops and other sectors of the tourism industry.

From the time our plane from Singapore touched down at Bangkok’s International Airport, it was clear that the country was in an economic warp. It took exactly 22 minutes from touch down until we were met outside the customs hall by our waiting limo driver. I have never experienced such a quick exit from the current airport or from Don Muang in earlier times.

It was noticeable that the tarmac aprons and docks were bereft of planes. In the past we have had to be bussed in to the terminal due to lack of docks. (The new airport only has two more berths than the old Don Muang and this has to cater for Thailand’s projected 150% increase in tourist numbers over the next 10 years!!!!!)

Our Thai airways plane from Chiang Rai to Bangkok was cancelled permanently we found out once we had arrived in Chiang Rai and currently there are only two flights a day between the two cities such is the dearth of visitors.

The first hotel we stayed at in Bangkok, the Millennium Hilton appeared reasonably busy, until I inquired of one of the concierge staff, who informed me that occupancy rate was running currently at 21%.

The second hotel we stayed at was in the Sukhumvit area where the general manager had closed down 14 floors of the property due to the small number of guests.

The third hotel, a month later also in Sukhumvit, was basically empty, to the extent that the buffet breakfast was not available but an ordered breakfast was, due no doubt to the lack of guests making it unviable to put on a buffet breakfast.

In Chiang Mai, the resort we stayed at had eight guests, it then dwindled to four then it was just the Shopper Girl and your correspondent. I’ve never felt so discomforted, in residing at a resort with all the eyes of staff on you every minute of the day – because you are the focus of their attention as there are no other guests to take care of.

In Chiang Rai, we stayed at a very large hotel on the Kok River. The first few days the place appeared quite busy with a tour party of Chinese enlivening the place.

However, when they departed the huge edifice was more reminiscent of a morgue, with five other couples apart from us occupying the premises.

Kanchanaburi! It was a case of “spot the tourist”. The popular destination was just about empty of visitors. We took a tour to the Hellfire Pass and other places of interest wherein the guide told us that it was her third day of work since March. The mini bus we were on had one other tourist, a Vietnamese-Canadian and at the Hellfire Pass Museum there were only six other tourists apart from the three of us, which is usually a place that attracts a lot of visitors.

At Three Pagodas Pass we were the only tourists in sight and in fact the proprietor of the guest house told us that we were the first guests in five weeks, the same scenario greeted us when we arrived at the hotel in Pai and in fact it was replicated right throughout our journey in Thailand.

Will the situation be ameliorated? That’s anyone’s guess, but as there are so many people reliant on the tourism sector in Thailand, I hope for their sake that it does.

Finally, I have to say I sometimes wonder if the Thai government wants to attract tourists at all. A local ex-pat alerted me to some legislation that is on the back burners at parliament.

(i) A proposal to impose an additional 20 baht per drink fee in all bars in Thailand to apply to foreigners only

(ii) Thai airways increased their fares by 3% in September last year and a further 3% in May. It is now the most expensive carrier out of Australia to Thailand and beyond. Its domestic fares are more than double its nearest most expensive competitor, Bangkok Airways.

(iii) A further proposal before parliament is for an additional 450 baht processing fee at international arrivals for all non ASEAN visitors, and another 450 baht processing fee for all departing non-ASEAN visitors. That looks to me as if it is another piece of discrimination that is becoming all too prevalent in Thailand

(iv) And finally, there is a proposal for an additional 10% bed tax for all non ASEAN visitors. I wondered how such a law could be policed, until I realised that all hotels and guest houses are compelled by law to take photo copies of their guests’ passports.

Looking at some South East Asian tourism data for the period March-June and it appears that the big winners in the demise of tourist numbers to Thailand is Vietnam.

The arrivals were up 20% on the same period last year and I’m guessing that many of the first time visitors to Vietnam will be returnees in the future. Vietnam has the sort of allure that once was the calling tune of Thailand.

Has Thailand cooked its tourism goose? Only time will tell.

They are also always looking for new expat recipes too!

You know i've been thinking about this. Now i'm a Thailand noob. I'm there at the moment and i'm 3 weeks into a 1 month stay. I am left with 2 over-riding thoughts of the place.

Firstly, where the hell is all the millions (billions?) of USD-worth of tourism money going?? I've travelled around a fair bit and the roads are dreadful, there's a serious lack of drinkable tap water and no foul water treatment to speak of. Internet services are flaky at best. Power supply is just as bad. There're piles of rubbish all over the place and all the Thais seem to do is lie around asking tourists if they want to hire a jetski or a motorbike...The beaches of Samui/Pha Ngan/Tao are slowly getting covered in rubbish. Do they realise WHY there are tourists visiting their country? It's certainly not to roll around in ****! (well, maybe it is for some people :p)

Secondly, the mentality from the government down to the man on the street seems to be that long term fiscal success lies on scamming a tourist for an extra 100Baht. They don't seem to understand the concept of return custom or reputation. Now i know i'm tarring many people with a single brush here, and there are many Thais out there who can't do enough for you, are really friendly and genuinely care about the service they provide, but in my short experience they seem to be in the minority. Most see you as a meal ticket. A walking ATM.

Tourism has pumped an enourmous amount of money into Thailand and has the potential to pump in a huge amount more but that will not happen if Thailand steps up or even continues its parasitic view of tourists. It's incredibley dumb, not to mention more than a little short-sighted.

There does not seem to be any regulation with regards to services offered. On my first day in Koh Samui i came in to contact with the Thai philosophy of "NO REFUNDS!". It only cost me 300 Baht so a good lesson learned there. But you couldn't do it in any developed country. Also my bag got rifled through on the bus there (whilst in the luggage compartment of a coach). Nothing worth nicking in there of course but annoying nonetheless. NOT a good start to a holiday in a new country.

I don't know if i'm being unreasonable. I came here after a month in Japan where they literally cannot do enough for each and every customer. If you walk into any shop you are treated like a King or Queen. If you have any complaint they are overly keen to make things right. Maybe i was spoiled there but i really don't think much of Thailand at the moment. Can't wait to head into Laos and Vietnam! And i'll defenately be heading back to Japan asap!! (getting the idea Thailand??)

Hmm i've been contmplating my comments here. I was initially burned a few times and was quite bitter about it. I think i was unprepared for it. I'm still working this crazy place out!

I've met some lovely lovely Thai people in my short time here and i don't want to leave the thread on a completely negative tone.
I really hope Thailand embraces tourism as i think it has a lot to gain from it but i think it's important that it's done in the right way. I'll enjoy my last week here and have some very fond memories to carry on with me. And who knows, i may even return one day! :p

We are off to Thailand next week then flying to Copenhagen. I rang up Thai Airlines to see if we could get an upgrade by using frequent flyer points for the flight to Copenhagen which is an 11 hour flight from BKK and bingo, no worries, they said would premium economy be ok?

So,for the first time in 8 years we were able to escape cattle class get an upgrade without hassles. Usually they say ring a few days before or sorry we are completely full- try again next year!!. So from this good news for me and the lipstick lover I surmise the flights to and from Thailand must be not very full and its the European holiday season. I wonder how long before things pick up?

This is such a disappointment.

I am heading to thailand in three weeks and I am travelling here for the 3rd time because the past two times it has just been such a nice place and you meet so many nice people.

This is so sad that thailand has become like this.

If they are so down on tourists why not do cheaper deals then to thailand? and packages?

Hi "wabbit",

Have a good trip. I think you will find Thai is barely half full. I noticed on the departures board at Suvarnbhumi that quite a few international flights had "cancelled" besides their flight numbers.

Even SIA whom I flew up with from Singers to Bangkok was barely half full and for a Singapore flight that is most unusual.

By the way watch out for those Danes. I got into a "drinking session" with a few of them while watching the soccer world cup in Kanchanaburi one night and I had to bail out after seven beers. They were far too quick for me and they were only warming up so they told me.

Thanks emdee for your thoughts and report back from your recent visit.
The Thais do not do themselves any favours a lot of the time.
The bubble seems to be bursting.

__________________
Kiss
God laughs at people who make plans.

Emdee,

Thank you for sharing your thoughts as a result of your trip; they make for sad reading. Thailand has always been "on the edge" - the short-term nature of thinking you often encounter in Thailand permeates from tour operators right up to government level. It seems as if the recent bout of riots has brought them ever closer to the civil war that is simmering under the surface, but most worryingly it has got the message out to tourists that Thailand is a bit of a no-go area. I am sure that will settle and the riots will be forgotten as the peak season comes around, but it no longer looks the bargain it once was, especially in tighter times.

It never ceases to amaze me when hoteliers/operators put their prices UP when there is a lull. Makes no sense at all!

Thailand does have a lot to offer, and I wouldn't want this thread to put anyone off visiting the Land of Smiles - in fact, that's exactly what they need right now.

__________________
Owner, travelforum.org
My latest travels: Shikoku Pilgrimage