The Seafood Restaurants of Bangkok
As before, full credit for the content of this post goes to Emdee, who wrote this way back in 2004 for the old forum.

In this, the final installment of the series “Eating Around” I will review the seafood restaurants of Bangkok.

At the outset I must point out that Bangkok appears to have more scams going in relation to seafood restaurants than anywhere else in Asia at the present time.

On my last two visitations to Bangkok, in March 2004 and September 2004, I discovered that the “plump the prawn” syndrome was alive and well.

Plumping the prawn is old method used mainly by Chinese restaurants.

Second grade, therefore reduced-sized prawns are bought from the market, and are then “marinated” in a concoction of water, bicarbonate soda and sesame oil for up to 12 hours.

The acid in the bicarbonate soda penetrates the mollusc at the tail end, and as it does so, water enters the into the meat of the prawn thereby making the prawn appear much bigger and heavier than it was in its original form. The sesame oil acts as a mask to disguise the taste of the bicarbonate soda.

If you have ever been to a restaurant where you put your chopsticks or fork into a prawn (shrimp) and liquid has squirted out, then you have partaken of adulterated food, or “plump prawn”.

Many people exclaim, “Oh, that prawn is full of juice”! Prawns don’t have juice and should never have liquid squirting from them.

The “plump prawn” scam has two advantages for the restaurant operators. As the seafood is paid for by weight by the restaurant’s patrons , the added water content pushes up the price of the delicacy, and secondly, the second or third grade prawns appear so plump that they metamorphose as first grade offerings.

The other scam is to weigh them, then take them to the cooking area, and upon the return of the prawns on a nicely presented plate, unless you are aware, you will generally be short of between 1 and 3 prawns, particularly if you have bought plenty for a medium to large table of guests.

That may not sound much, but multiply that dishonest practice by say 700 diners a day and you will get an idea of the money being scammed from tourists with this downright dishonest scam.

Now I shall deal out some brickbats and bouquets to the seafood restaurants that I ventured into in Bangkok over the past few years.

IF IT SWIMS WE’VE GOT IT
This famous seafood restaurant is located on Sukhumvit Soi 24. It has featured in many TV travel programmes and is well known on this forum.

However, this is one of the restaurants that practices the “plump prawn” scam and also indulges in “remove three prawns” practice from what was selected from the iced displays.

It is one of the most overpriced seafood restaurants in Bangkok, and to top it off, they are now charging in addition to their outrageous prices, a 250 baht cooking fee per dish, and have also recently introduced a 10% service charge and a 7% VAT fee.

The cooking charge is but a blatant rip off, as the cooking methods are simple and quick. There should never be a cooking charge - it should always be inclusive in the price.

The other issue I have with place is that the ambience is zero. It is akin to dining in an aircraft hangar replete with Arctic air conditioning, with the wait staff hovering around waiting to collect the plates as soon as the last item has disappeared.

The drinks here are also alarmingly high. The locally brewed Singha beer, which retails in 7 Eleven, Foodland, Tesco and Villa Supermarkets for around 28-35 baht is sold in this aircraft hangar for 295 baht per bottle, plus 10% service charge. That is a 1000% mark up to accompany their crooked food practices.

This place, at a guess, would provide 2500 covers, and judging from the amount of tourists who think the place is “great”, it must be a veritable gold mine. Significantly, very few Thais patronize this place, partly because they couldn’t afford it, but mainly I suspect, they know a scam when they see one.

However, when one finds out that the place is owned by four high ranking police officers and a military general, one is not surprised at the scams and dishonesty, as the Royal Thai Police Force would have to be one of the most corrupt organizations in the whole of Asia, and that is certainly saying something.

I know that the forgoing will upset some readers of this forum, as there have been many posts extolling the food of this well known eatery, however, take from me, if you enter its portals, the likelihood is that you will be ripped off big time with “plump prawns” into the bargain.

My advice: Give this place a wide berth and try some of my recommendations further down.

GIANT PRAWN RESTAURANT
Also in Sukhumvit Soi 24 on the left hand side about 200 metres up the Soi from Sukhumvit Road. It is next door to another seafood restaurant and both of them practice diligently the “plump prawn” syndrome.

The prices are a lot lower than the rip off aircraft hangar farther up the Soi, but they also have introduced a cooking fee. Isn’t it surprising that the only “cooking fees” in the whole of Bangkok are to be found in Suk Soi 24, which is full of ex-pats and tourists!

Once again it is Emdee’s suggestion that you give these two places a wide berth as well. In fact, if you are wise, give the whole of Suk 24 a wide berth, with the exception of the Tesco/Lotus food court at the Rama IV Road end of the soi, which is good value, but has little in the way of seafood.

OK, I hear you say, I like seafood, but after those fusillades where do I go.

Emdee’s suggestions are the following:

SEAFOOD DRAGON (Please note this eatery is NO LONGER recommended. See my 2005 report regarding this restaurant).
This restaurant(s) can be found in the Pratunam market area. They are located not far from the canal. Unfortunately “plump prawn” has been detected here as well, however, the prices are very reasonable and THERE IS NO COOKING FEE.

The food is fresh, and you get what you pay for, that is, no food is removed in the cooking area.

If you want fresh seafood a la carte at reasonably prices I can recommend this place. I can’t give you a price estimate as the market varies from day to day regarding fish prices, lobsters and prawns, but it good to remember that good seafood seldom cheap in Bangkok.

THE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT AT RIVER CITY
I have already recommended this restaurant in a thread further down. It is expensive, but the food is sparkling fresh, it is located in a romantic setting on the banks of the Chao Phraya, and importantly, no scams are employed at this eatery.

I can’t remember the name, but it is the only seafood restaurant in the River City Shopping mall, and it is easy to find.

It is an Amex job, but you are going to have one seafood splurge whilst you are in Bangkok, you could do a lot worse than this charming restaurant.

FISHERMAN’S SEAFOOD AND OYSTER BAR
This up-market eatery is located in the exclusive Gaysorn Plaza almost opposite the Chitlom BTS.

This place exhibits first class seafood in a very up-market atmosphere. Everything that lives in the oceans and rivers is available here seven days a week.

I have had the steamed lobster with shallots and ginger here, and whilst expensive, it is an exquisite dish well worthy of its price tag.

Like the River City restaurant above, this is an Amex job, and is in the “big splurge” category.

THE RESTAURANT OPPOSITE THE ROYAL RIVER HOTEL
This is an out-of-area recommendation. However, a lovely refreshing trip on the Chao Phraya express boat up river will whet the appetite for this place. I’ve never been able to get a handle on its name, nor have other people, as it is generally referred to as the restaurant next to the Krunthon bridge.

Tell the person who collects the fares at the back of the boat that you want to get off at the Royal River Hotel. Once on the pier, just wave your arms in the direction of the restaurant across the river, and the will speedily send a boat to pick you up.

This lovely restaurant does more than just seafood. It has brilliant Thai, Japanese, seafood and some Singaporean.

The seafood is cheap here by Bangkok standards and is well prepared and the cooking techniques are first class.

I would suggest this place for a lunch time meal. You will find it relaxing to escape the madness of Bangkok for a while, and you will dine well and reasonably cheaply as you watch the passing parade on the might Chao Phraya as you bite into a perfectly steamed Garoupa, finished in searing hot peaut oil to give it a crispy finish, and topped with a soy, shallot and ginger sauce. Yum Yum indeed!

Most of Bangkok’s five star hotels also have seafood eateries, but as previously posted on the earlier parts of “Eating Around”, they charge sky high prices, but you can be assured that “plump prawn” syndrome and “delete 3 prawns” scams are not practiced in these hallowed eating halls.

Well folks that wraps up for the time being Emdee’s take on the current Bangkok eating scene.

Later on if I can get motivated, I might do an “Eating Around” series on Chiang Mai and Hua Hin, particularly the latter, as it has the best seafood in the whole of the kingdom

I trust that the all of the installments have given some insight of where to dine and where not to dine, and importantly, I have been careful to recommend only those restaurants that I know practice and maintain peak hygiene standards.

Have a great time in Bangkok, and as always - AROY DEE (tasty dining).

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