GROSSI TRATTORIA AND WINE BAR AT THE INTERCONTINENTAL

Chefing is my profession. Personally I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone except the most passionate and dedicated and/or dumb. Early rising, late to bed, split shifts, unrelenting pressure, ruined social life, demanding and often rude clientele, unreliable staff, hit and miss suppliers and the continuing pressure to uphold your reputation as a top quality chef.

Therefore I have found it quite amazing over the past decade or so to witness the emergence of a number of chefs as rock stars in their profession and some of them have become a “brand”.

The abominable Gordon Ramsay (he wouldn’t last 20 minutes in any of my kitchens!), Jamie Oliver whom my wife and female staff describe as “delectable”, his countryman Gary Rhodes and at an earlier time the French trio of Alain Chapel, Roger Verge and Paul Bocuse all became “brands” and household names with their TV shows and umpteen cook books each. There were others but the aforementioned are the ones that come to mind more readily.

Add to that stellar list the name of Guy Grossi. This highly acclaimed Melbourne chef is now in the stratosphere of “rock star/brand chef”.

Guy Grossi is the both the owner and chef of Melbourne’s world renowned Florentino Restorante. This venerable institution has been in Italian hands during every decade since its founding in 1922. Chef Grossi is the latest in a long line of talented Italians to have stood over the stoves with his pots and pans in the revered Bourke Street establishment. It features regularly in Melbourne's dining bible The Age Good Food Gudie with either two or three chef's hats to indicate its high rating.

To dine there also required a reservation at least a week in advance and for Saturday evenings about a month in advance. Gentlemen HAD to wear jacket and tie and if one were to turn up without the obligatory tie, well there was a whole rack to choose from at the restaurant’s foyer, for without that vital piece of adornment one did not progress past the maitre’d at the front door.

Dining there was an occasion and was always expensive, but worth it.

It is now many years since your correspondent has dined there so it was with some relish that I learned that the “brand” Grossi had extended its influence to Bangkok and had opened a restaurant at the refurbished Intercontinental Hotel on Ploenchit Road.

Both my wife’s birthday and your correpondent’s birthdays are three days apart and as we were in Bangkok at the time we decided that the big conjoint birthday bash would be at Guy Grossi’s Trattoria and Wine Bar.

Upon arrival at the restaurant which is located on the ground floor of the Intercontinental Hotel, one is struck by the huge atrium ceiling soaring some 40-50 feet above the entry. The flooring is a mosaic of black and white tiles and the restaurant has features of stainless steel and glass everywhere. Seating is accommodated in cosy booths or at hard top tables. There is an agreeable ambience, not cosy (how could it be with that huge atrium?), not warm, but the place certainly emits a “buzz”.

The menu which was brought to us by a smartly clad young woman who spoke perfect English revealed a massive tome that omitted nothing from the famous Italian cuisine.

As we were perusing this massive menu a jug of ice cold water was placed on the table and we ordered two Negroni (Campari, sweet vermouth and gin) as pre dinner drinks.

Where to start! Everything looked so appealing. After what seemed a small eternity we settled our choices and summoned the smartly clad young woman to take our well considered orders.

She Who Must Shop ordered Calamari Padella which the menu described as pan fried squid, chick peas, chilli and basil while your correspondent ordered something unusual; Asapargi Bianchi In Camicia which the menu delineated as white asparagus, scrambled eggs and fontina cheese.

To follow as main courses the shopping girl ordered Fettuccine Con Ragu Di Vitello In Bianco which the menu broke into English as handcut fettuccine, braised veal, white wine, cream and herbs, while your salivating correspondent after a long pause plumped for the Pesce Alla Griglia which translated as today’s grilled fish (garoupa), with fennel, rocket, capers, orange, radishes and crab emulsion. As an accompaniment we also ordered a Caponata Siciliana Insalata which was described as Silian braised eggplant, sweet and sour as a salad.

My attention was then turned to the extensive wine list. Usually we don’t bother to order wine in Thailand because of the impost thrust on it by the Thailand Government at 354% duty.

However, this was a special occasion and to accompany such beautiful food ordering beer would almost have been unthinkable.

Wines from everywhere at startling prices greeted my eyes when I opened the wine listing. After much humming and aahing, I finally settled on a Warangkana Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. I thought that this herbaceous wine would be the perfect accompaniment to our menu choices.

Whilst waiting for the entrees to arrive we sipped on the nicely concocted Negroni in our chilled glasses and took in the dining scene of the Trattoria. On this rainy evening there were only about 20 diners and apart from one other table of four Westerners the others were Thais.

After about 15 minutes our entrees arrived sitting on huge white plates. The starched white napkins were whisked across our laps and we took up the heavy cutlery to start the evening’s proceedings.

She Who Must Shop started making ooohing noises almost immediately as she tucked into her selection of Calamari with the chick peas, chilli and basil. She intermittently stopped eating to give an abbreviated running commentary on the superb taste, texture and combination of the dish. “You’ll have to cook this when we get home she exclaimed”. “Indeed”! I mean, why argue?

Meanwhile your correspondent was amazed by the unusual combination of white asparagus and scrambled egg and the fortina cheese. The asparagus was sublime, par cooked, crunchy and dripping from the barely formed scrambled eggs and the melted fortina cheese. A dish to remember for all time I concluded – and so simple as well.

By this time the New Zealand Warangkana Sauvignon Blanc had been presented in an ice bucket draped with a heavily starched white napkin. The wine waiter poured a little into my glass for approval and immediately I knew I had made an inspired choice. The beautifully balanced and crisp white wine, with a refined gooseberry taste and herbaceous aroma was the perfect companion to this fine dining evening at Guy Grossi’s Bangkok Trattoria.

At the conclusion of the entrees I asked the smartly clad one who the chef was as I knew that Guy Grossi wouldn’t be found in the kitchen. The young lass replied that his name was Jess. Well Jess, boy do you know how to cook. I wondered whether he had been trained by GG or whether it was a combination of his natural talents and on the job instruction from Chef Grossi.

After an intermission of around 20 minutes the smartly clad one arrived once again with our mains, once again ensconced on huge white plates. Then silence descended around our cosy booth as the shopping girl and your correspondent became immersed in the sublime tastes, aromas and textures of each of our dishes.

Not a word was exchanged during the course of the next 10 minutes while we masticated mouthful after mouthful of the outstandingly delicious food.

At the conclusion of the “fanfare gusto” we both looked at each other knowing we had just devoured two of the best dishes we had ever had.

From your correspondent’s perspective the Garoupa with crab emulsion and the other ingredients constituted fine dining at its very best and exhibited the highest level of skills and talent in the kitchen. The perfectly cooked fish was an absolute delight, crispy, flavoursome and the rocquet, capers, blood orange and finally the crab emulsion were all outstanding sentinels in an outstanding dish.

The shopping girl who’s birthday it was, exclaimed that it was the best birthday meal she had ever had. “What about all those lovely meals I cooked over the years”? I countered. “Oh, those too,” she replied unconvincingly.

She went on to say that the hand cut fettuccine with the braised veal and cream would be a dish she would never forget. “Can we do this again?” she asked appealingly. “No – not on this trip at these prices dear”.

We were finishing our meal with the insalata which left our palates with a nice fresh feeling as the smartly clad one arrived to remove our dishes and inquire as to whether we had the appetite for “dolci” or as we know it – desserts.

Your correspondent does not normally go for the third course of cholesterol, however, on this special occasion I relented and ordered Panna Cotta, Insalata Di Bosco or for us English speakers vanilla panna cotta, strawberry salad with rose jelly and sorbet.

The birthday girl ordered the usual for her – Tiramisu.

With just a half glass left of the lovely wine in each of our drinking vessels the desserts arrived on the by now ubiquitous big white plates.

My panna cotta had been carefully prepared and was a very good presentation of this well known Italian dessert and the accompanying strawberry salad and rose jelly made an ordinary dish memorable. The sorbet ensured that there was no residue of over sweetness remaining on the palate.

The tirmisu on the other side of the table disappeared in an alarmingly quick time which the shopping girl described as nothing outstanding. Oh, well, the first negative of the night I thought.

As we sipped on the last drops of the Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc I indicated to the smartly clad one that I would now face my purgatory of dissecting the bill.

With much aplomb it arrived on a silver platter, and with a sinking heart I opened the leather cover to discover:

Cocktail Negroni x 2 380 baht; 1 x Warangkana New Zealand Saubignon Blance 2008 vintage 1800 baht; 1 x Calamari Padella 350 baht; 1 x Aspargi Bianchi 400 baht; 1 x Pesce All Griglia (the Garoupa dish) 700 baht; 1 x Con Ragu Vitello (fettuccine) 390 baht; 1 x Insalata Siciliana 220 baht.

Total: 4240 baht. +10% service charge 424 baht + 7% tax 296.80 baht.

Grand total: 4960.80 baht. I removed my 35 year old battered wallet from my jacket pocket and took out five crisp 1000 baht notes, deposited them on the silver platter, grabbed the arm of the birthday girl and got into the waiting taxi that the staff had waved down for us.

As the driver plodded along the Bangkok streets awash in the monsoonal rains, we discussed the meal and concluded that it was one of the best ever. At 5000 baht (at the time $AUD200), we were of the opinion that Chef Grossi’s eatery would be one of the highest priced fine dining establishments in Bangkok, but we were also remindful that it would have cost another 30% or thereabouts back at Chef Grossi’s headquarters in Melbourne. And I didn’t have to wear a tie – now that was a bonus!


VERDICT: Fine dining at its best. If there is to be one big night on your next Bangkok vacation and your budget can stand the direct hit of the Exocet missile in disguise as the bill at Grossi Trattoria, then you will indulge in one of the finest meals you are ever likely to have.

RATING: Food 9/10; service 8/10; ambience 6/10; value for money (this is tough one!) 7/10.
Score: 30/40.

LOCATION: Grossi Trattoria and Wine Bar is located on the ground floor of the Intercontinental Hotel, at 973 Ploenchit Road, Bangkok. It accepts all major credit cards. Bookings not essential but could be advisable.

NEXT WEEK: We descend from the heights of fine dining Bangkok style at Grossi Trattoria & Wine Bar to road test one of the most popular street stalls in Bangkok.

Great review Emdee. 5000 baht for a meal for 2 in Bangkok is top dollar, but it sounds like it was worth it. It's only $160aus now! Do you mind if I publish a link for this review on fodors? The foodies there are always looking for a new fine dining experience in Bangkok.

I assumed that you had some connection to the hospitality industry but didn't realise that you were a chef. Are you currently working in Melbourne?

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I love Thailand this much

I just had a closer look at the make-up of your bill and realised that you have not mentioned the prices of the deserts. Were they complimentary?

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I love Thailand this much

Another most interesting read emdee. It brought to mind the most memorable meal I’ve ever had in my life, also an Italian restaurant in Bangkok. This was back in 1980 and I’d been hospitalized with some fever at the McCormick hospital in Chiang Mai. I couldn’t eat; even things like rice soup came flying back up, so I lost a lot of weight and was very weak. After a few days on drips I was strong enough to travel again. By the time I was back in Bangkok my illness had passed: I was well again, and ravenous – I wanted food and lots of it. I found a chic Italian restaurant in a soi off Sukhumvit and ordered minestrone soup with crusty bread, a spaghetti main meal, a bottle of red wine, and some dessert. I remember the red wine surged through my veins like a blood transfusion. When the bill came it was over 1,000Bt. That may not sound much these days but this was almost 30 years ago and to spend 1000Bt on one meal at that time was ridiculous. But I didn’t care less about the cost, it was beyond economics.

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The Truly Wise Man Never Plays Leapfrog With A Unicorn

Stop it, stop it..... I am drooling and I have just eaten dinner ! LOL

Another really good report thanks

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Kiss
God laughs at people who make plans.

Another wonderful read Emdee.

I'm rather sad now we are by-passing Bangkok next year as I'd love to have given that restaurant a go (just bought V Australia airfares direct from Melbourne to Phuket) The nearest we get to fine dining is Sam's at the Holiday Inn in Patong and that's not cheap either.

I look forward to reading about your next 'nose bag' experience.

Cheers Geri

Shanek: Yes by all means post the link on Fodors. I'm honoured!
No, I don't work work in Melbourne. In fact I don't stand over any stoves any longer. I am now a consultant for an international hospitality chain which is very lucrative, to say nothing about the incumbent travels. NZ, Fiji, Manila, KL, Bangkok, Hoi An, Saigon, Hanoi and various Australian destinations thus far. Love it.

You are correct about the desserts. When the waitress found out that it was the shopper girl's birthday, the manager told us that the desserts were gratis. A very generous offer, as added to the bill it have rounded it out at 5550 baht.

BobMac
Well you are a real Thai veteran Bob. A grand of baht 30 years ago was indeed a small fortune. Transferred into today's currency I'm guessing it would be in the vicinity of 10,000 baht. And believe me, you wouldn't have to try very hard to spend 10 grand in Chef Grossi's trattoria.

Geri
If you go to Bangkok for a big night out you won't be disappointed in the trattoria. Just make sure that you have plenty of baht in your purse or your credit card is unencumbered.
And the next "nose bag" experience is at one of Bangkok's most popular street stalls.

For the amount I expended at the trattoria I could have eaten at this street stall for 20 consecutive days!

Interesting about the celebrity chefs too emdee. Personally I don't care for Jamie Oliver, there's too much crash-bang-wallop on his show for my liking, I prefer the more laid back touch of Hughie or Maggie & Simon. The one I like best is Nigela Lawson, I recall one episode when she had to get up in the middle of the night to turn over some dish that was slow cooking through the night. Nigela in her see-through nighty interests me much more than Jamie Oliver throwing pans around the room.

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The Truly Wise Man Never Plays Leapfrog With A Unicorn

Hi Emdee,
Did you get a copy of todays Herald Sun? Stephen Downes has reviewed Grossi Florentino and was less than complimentary of the food. He is a hard man to please.

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I love Thailand this much

Shanek

No I didn't read the article by Downs. Some years ago he gave me a reasonable review by his standards, but in his inimitable manner he couldn't finish the review without having something negative to say.

He castigated me for having "southern rock lobster" on the menu instead of "Australian crayfish". "Why is it" he asked "that some Melbourne's chefs and restaurteurs can't plainly state what is on their menus"?

I wrote a letter to Downs who was at that time a reviewer for "The Age", wherein I pointed out that Southern Rock Lobster (Trichiuros Lepturus), was a unique species and bore not relation to the common crayfish. Its size, taste, texture, weight and colour before cooking was entirely different to the four crayfish species found in Australia.

I further pointed out to him that the Southern Rock Lobster had a distinct harvesting season, and that it was only found in the waters of Victoria, Tasmania, New Zealand and part of the waters of South Australia.

Downs never published the letter, however, I sent a copy of it to the Letter Editor of "The Age" about two weeks later . . . and he did publish it!