Malaysia Highlights

[steveadmin]

to the new Malaysia travel forum. I wanted to kick it off by posting about some of my personal favourite places in Malaysia. I must admit - I knew very little about Malaysia before I decided to visit, and I was fascinated when I found out about its diverse ethnic mix. As a more-than-developing, but not-quite-developed (compared with the Western notion of the term) country, I hadn't realised that it was a secular Muslim nation of ethnic Malays, as well as having sizeable minorities of Chinese and Indians too, all painted against a backdrop of recent British colonial history. This was a place worth checking out.

Penang
Penang was my first experience of Malaysia, travelling down from Hat Yai in Thailand on the train to the transport hub of Butterworth. The train was very late, seemingly hanging around at the border for a good hour, and I later learned that the underside of trains were (still are?) commonly scanned for bombs due to Islamic insurgency in the south of Thailand. Penang had all the elements I had read about: a Chinatown, cinemas offering Bollywood spectaculars, huge British colonial buildings, and little Malay restaurants serving up nasi goreng and other delicacies. Above all else, it had a relaxed, gentle, even affluent feel after so many months in Thailand. I only had enough time for a few hours' stop before continuing my journey, but I have since returned and find it a very pleasant destination that's well worth a stop-off when travelling between Thailand and southern Malaysia.

Kuala Lumpur
KL Sentral train station highlights the economic differences between Malaysia and Thailand. It's a sparkling, clean place, all modern digital timetable boards and metallic corners, and makes poor old Hualampong look in dire need of a spring clean. I enjoyed wandering around KL's Chinatown, which has lots of decent food stalls where you can buy various deep fried delicacies for no money at all as well as sit down and munch on a proper Chinese meal. Little India was also a great experience, with its colourful night markets and vast array of eating options. And of course, the Petronas Towers are a marvellous sight that defines the whole city. Overall, though, I must say I found the city less engaging than Bangkok.

Cameron Highlands
Up in the hills, the Cameron Highlands are an old British colonial settlement. The temperature up there is far more palatable than the searing heat of KL. You'll need a jumper! It's good tea-growing country, and there are many plantations you can visit to drink a lovely fresh brew. There are plenty of decent walks, too, clearly signposted, which will take you through forests and past quaint rose gardens. The Cameron Highlands were further evidence of the vast diversity of Malaysia.

Perhentian Islands
Someone had recommended the Perhentian Islands to me and had raved about the place, so I was keen to check it out. I was blown away; I have never seen water so clear as I did in the Perhentians, nor sand so white. You could see tens of metres down, and it was as hot as bath water in the shallows. Prime scuba/snorkel terroritory, on a long snorkel trip I was lucky enough to spot a shark and a giant turtle surfacing. On the beach every night, the locals cook up today's catch and you can eat barbequed fish (plenty of choice). The only downer about the whole place was that beer was scarce and pricey, and it wasn't the best quality, but this is due to Malaysia's Muslim majority supporting a government that whacks up tax on alcohol (as well as the locals not wanting to have much to do with it due to their beliefs, understandably). I highly recommend the Perhentians for a visit.

Mount Kinabalu
Climbing Mount Kinabalu was right up there with the best experience of my whole year-long round the world trip, and I would strongly recommend attempting the climb, as it's very accessible. The best advice I can give is for you to take your time when planning. Make sure you have sturdy shoes, a headtorch, gloves, warm jacket and trousers, food and drink. The first climb up to Laban Rata at 3,300 metres is fine; you then stay overnight (accommodation is sparse, and MUST be booked in advance) and get up at 2 or 3am (ouch!) for a climb in the dark up to the summit ahead of the dawn which you watch from 4,000 metres. The climb is a fair challenge, and you may start to feel the effects of altitude sickness, but it's well worth it to see the sun rise at 13,000 feet. It's not an experience I will forget in a hurry.

Would anyone else care to share their favourite Malaysian haunts? Or to expand on the destinations described above?

[jaxw17]

can you tell me a bit about the expected weather in march for penang and langkawi

[steveadmin]

Hi Jax,
I think March is a good time for Penang (and presumably Langkawi as well, as it's not too far northwards) - it's one of the driest months. Of course you might get some rain, but you'd be unlucky if you got a boatload. Temperatures should be early thirties, so hot but not overbearing.

Are you planning a trip for next year?

[jaxw17]

just pricing it up now with a couple of nights in KL on the way back

[steveadmin]

Good to hear! Did you know Air Asia fly from London Stansted to Kuala Lumpur? I've never found any really competitive fares though... and not sure what it would be like to fly budget long haul

[Alison]

Are you going to Langkawi? Any ideas onwhere you might stay as I haev to say we went there a few years ago and made the worst mistake of our lives with accomodation.

I wasn't as good at reading between the lines as I am now!

[steveadmin]

Hi Alison,
What was wrong with your Langkawi accommodation to make it so bad back then? Intriguing!

Luckily, these days with all the hotel/resort review sites that have cropped up I find it increasingly hard to make a bad choice regarding accommodation. If you trawl through the reviews, and cut out the extremes (i.e. the over-the-top ones flowing with praise that are probably paid for by the hotel! and the gripey ones where people obviously have a grudge/beef with the place or are written by competitors) then I find nowadays you can get a good handle on a place before you visit.

[Alison]

We stayed at the Berjaya Langkawi Resort. I though the chalets on stilts looked very promising but they were damp and fausty until our third move. The sea view ones you could just about see the sea through the trees. The beach had been washed away so hardly any sand, too many children (sorry but I can't be doing with screaming kids all day), the main restaurant had poor food (very good chinese restaurant though).

Yes I know, I'm moaning but it was a 3* and one of the few that probably was over ranked rather than the reverse which is what you usually get.

We learnt from it and now do very careful reviews and, of course, I hadn't come across this forum then!

[Emdee]

Steve,

You mention the bright shiny new KL station - and yes, it is world class. But did you get to see the old KL train station? It was/is the most magnificent building in KL. Indeed, it was the best looking train station that I have ever seen, replete with minarets, moorish architecture and the atmosphere in that old building made the hairs on the neck stick out when one entered the main concourse.

KL as a city doesn't do it for me. It lacks excitement, atmosphere - I don't know - there is just something missing. Of all of the places I have been to in Malaysia, KL would rank for me as the least memorable - except for the Petronas Towers.

[phil mcfc]

Originally Posted by steveadmin

Good to hear! Did you know Air Asia fly from London Stansted to Kuala Lumpur? I've never found any really competitive fares though... and not sure what it would be like to fly budget long haul

the flight is not too bad and you can book extra leg room and all the comforts which we did - problem is at KL airport and no transit if flying on to a n other pert of call - got Stansted - KL for £371 return per person with extra leg room on all flights as well as extra baggage allownace and my own food etc so great value if you can stick the queues