Our recent Ubud visit, some observations

DavidB · #1 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 05:09 AM

Hi all! Had a couple of weeks primarily in Ubud back in May. We also did a day trip to Bedugal and Munduk, and a two nighter to Pemuteran travelling there via Kintamani. I have been to Kintamani before and have put it on my list of places NOT to visit mainly due to the extremely aggressive hawkers. As we had a couple of newbies with us I thought just passing through it was a good way for them to enjoy the sights without feeling the need to stop for lunch and all the hassles that go with that, hawkers, food poisoning from buffet, being ripped off etc. etc.

Observation 1 - the drive to Pemuteran via Kintamani took the best part of 4 hours but was far more civilized than the drive via Bedugal and Singaraja as there is very little traffic and the road passes through the centre of Singaraja which is an interesting place, very Dutch colonial in architecture as is to be expected. The extra hour was worth it.

Observation 2 - Ubud was very busy with tourists, as busy as I remember it pre October 2002

Observation 3 - There is less persistance from drivers touting for business in the streets of Ubud

Observation 4 - There are more and more good places at which to eat opening up in all price ranges in Ubud. Some notables springing up in the last year or so are:
Tropical Bale
Sally Thai
Tropicale
Bar Luna
Warung Mendez
Bunute
Kafe Organic

Observation 5 - the price of Bintang beer in the supermarket has doubled in the past year. It is now more expensive than San Miguel or Carlsburg

Cheers for now

markaa · #2 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 01:53 PM

The Kintamani road is nice and quiet. When you go down the other side, about 8 Km or so from memory, there is a funny shaped turn off (the turn off actually is to the right and then the turn off road goes above the main road for a few meters, so it looks a local, going nowhere road). That is the road down through some supposed Bali Aga villages, down to the coast near Tejakula; you should give somewhere like Alam Anda or Agung Bali Nirwana a try sometime.

Or, take a right at Singaraja to do the coast route taking in Air Sanih (public natural water baths) and Ponjok Batu temple; Puri Bagus used to have a restaurant overlooking it.

Sounds like Ubud has improved

. I guess it was your favorite diggs again in Penestanan? Has the rice field area around it been spoiled (built on) yet?

DavidB · #3 (**permalink**) 06-21-2009, 11:50 PM

We will do the right turn and head east along the coast one day soon. We stayed in Pemuteran at Taman Sari again, having stayed already at the other two in the "trilogy". There is a bit of development occurring but they are managing it fairly well, no obvious signs yet of them ruining the spot. There is now a cocktail bar situated on the main road situated out in front of the "trilogy". It is run by a fairly savvy local woman who has worked on an Italian cruise ship. She has built some fairly nice non-beach front accommodation back in from the road a bit. My partner had a "sex on the beach" there and it was remarked by someone that it should have been called a "sex on the main Singaraja to Java highway"!

markaa · #4 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 06:18 AM

Hi David
I actually was more interested in Gerebig, whether its surroundings had stayed as good or whether development had afflicted it?

You should try the north and then east coast route for walkabout one visit. Sambirenteng a couple of nights, Tulamben the same, maybe a little longer in Amed, then perhaps Padang Bai. Alam Anda for example (Sambirenteng) and most hotels in Tulamben are primarily for diver but get past that and they offer really good bespoke accommodation and not so heavy on the wallet. If you ever go during the rainy season, the north and east gets less rainfall, so maybe then is a good time.

DavidB · #5 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 07:37 AM

Ahhh, Gerebig! There has been nothing obviously built around Gerebig since I first stayed there in 2002. Yes, we stayed there again in May. This August we are taking our son, daughter & husband with young child, friend of daughter, and brother & sister in-law and we are all staying at Gerebig, almost have the place booked out!

Catherine · #6 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 09:44 AM

Nice to read your news and information. I must make the journey to the north east one day and also check out Singaraja. It must be 25years since I drove through the Dutch capital and I can remember nothing about it that matters.

I enjoyed Ubud so much when I was last there, even though it was quite busy. Wandering around, walking the laneways & getting off the main areas, it was just lovely. Jl. Bisma, which is off the main road before the big cutting/tunnel, is a great location too. As I was on my own at the time though and Bisma seemed a little isolated, I stayed in Jl Monkey Forest. However I had some lovely walks along this beautiful street and hoped the development that was underway was not going to destroy it. A bit concerning as the views over the rice padis and watching the farmers at work is just wonderful. Hopefully it won't become spoilt and lost to progress.

All the best

Catherine

DavidB · #7 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 11:44 AM

Hi Catherine. When were you last in Ubud? Your description of Jl Monkey Forest makes me think it was some time ago! Jl Bisma is a great little strip with good accommodation and my fave restaurant, Cafe des Artistes.

I thought the Dutch capital had some areas with similar charm to the old quarter in Hanoi.

Cheers,
David

Catherine · #8 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 02:04 PM

My apologies for bad wording....I meant that Jl Bisma was a lovely street and not Jl. Monkey Forest. Sorry, my husband came in and started talking to me while I was typing. Tragic how I just can't multi-task any more these days. That's not to say that Jl. M Forest is not interesting but nothing like the sight and sound of nature and good old Bali rural tradition, as in rice farming, to soothe the soul.

There is a walk through the Pertiwi Resort in Jl. Monkey Forest that brings you out in Jl. Bisma, as it runs between the two streets. The gardens of the Pertiwi are quite lovely. Otherwise there is a goat track at the end of the shops that brings you out at the end of Jl. Bisma.

I'm also often pleasantly surprised at the undeveloped land behind the shops and restaurants in some places. I watched a rice padi farmer direct the water from one padi to another and the ducks go about their daily work while sitting in Three Monekys. Apparently the farmer sold a piece of land (1 padi field) to the restaurant owner and keeps farming the remainder so it seems everyone is a winner.

Ah, Cafe Des Artistes, also a favourite of mine.

I must put Singaraja near the top of my list if it's like Hanoi. Sounds very interesting and well worth a visit.

Catherine

DavidB · #9 (**permalink**) 06-22-2009, 11:15 PM

Hi Catherine, I wouldn't rush to Singaraja on my description of it being like Hanoi....... it has some elements of Hanoi and is interesting as a comparison with Hanoi, but Hanoi it ain't!!!!
Cheers, David

markaa · #10 (**permalink**) 06-23-2009, 06:49 AM

has some interesting but not opulent buildings, a nice silversmiths area and a large market well worth a visit. Past that, it is a pretty shabby run down place with a supermarket, a few ATMs / cash machines (a rarity in these parts), a local meat ball "delicacy" which slithers rather than slides down, and a lot of mosque noise.