Hi Rob

You lived there for 8 years!? Lucky you! We have only ever stayed for a month or so at a time, but it never seems long enough . Favourite place on the isand - well, that is a tough one. Best beach - toss up between Bottle Beach and Thong Nai Pan Yai. We have stayed at both places, at different times. On our first trip (1993) we stayed at Paradise at Had Rin, but that was before Had Rin turned into what it is today. On a nice day the beach at Had Rin is still gorgeous (although you have to watch for the oily sludge in the water and on the sand bottom from the longtail boats), but it is way too noisy around there for us (we like to sleep of a night time, these days). So, we usually stay around Ban Tai. The beach is pretty ordinary, but it's nice and laid back and central in that it is easy to get to Thong Sala, Had Rin and Thong Nai Pan. Plus, we have friends in the area. Have always intended to stay around Had Yai so now, given your wrap, we will have to check it out. As to the full moon parties - you are a brave man. Forty! Mate, two was enough for me, although we did go a third time. A lot of the locals give it a miss these days. You gotta admit, the behaviour of some of the [other] farangs is way over the top. How drunk and off your face can someone get? This much... As to the island's survival - it seems to be slowly but surely turning up-market. Accommodation prices are higher every time we go. You can still get your coconut wood and thatch hut for around 350, but until fairly recently we were paying that much for a nice new bungalow on the beach, with insect screens, bathroom, balcony etc. These are now more like 600, if you're lucky. The older huts are getting pretty run down these days. Realistically, they need replacing or, at least, rethatching, every two or three years. Closer to Had Rin people are paying, like, 3000 for an aircon bungalow on the beach. It is becoming valuable real estate. Anyway, we still love the island. As long as they don't build an airstrip there, which I reckon would ruin the place, it should be ok. It is far enough out of the way to discourage most mainstream tourists. Anyway, the island's party party reputation also frightens away the mainstream. As you know, the island's resorts are mainly "lowrise", although there are some high rise places starting to rear up around Had Rin, I notice. When is your next trip?