When we ‘discovered’ Khao Lak in April 2003 we were, understandably, extremely exited. Here was a place which was virtually unknown within easy reach of a major airport. At this time, the majority of holidaymakers arriving at HKT were, presumably, staying on the island at one of the more established resorts. Also at this time the only information about Khao Lak was within the tour company brochures, compared with today’s array of internet based information and forums.
So in 2003 Khao Lak was, to us, like a sleepy backwater with the main activities being at Bang La On. The approach by road started, of course, with the magnificent view of the beaches as far as Pakarang Cape as you descended the hill from Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park. However, the road here was quite narrow, with no footpaths or barriers along the side as today. Entering La On, the road continued as a single carriageway with the first shops and restaurants at the apex of the first bend into the village. La On consisted of a sprinkling of shops and restaurants set far back from the road. In the evenings we would browse in most of the shops, have a few drinks in a bar, have a meal in one of the restaurants and still be in time for the shuttle bus back to the hotel. Parking was simply a case of pulling off the highway in front of the shop or restaurant of your choice, unlike today when, in the evenings, you have to keep your eyes peeled for a suitable space as you circle round, doing a U turn at each end of the central reservation. Between the shops and restaurants there were vast expanses of undeveloped land with magnificent views of the sumptuous hills to the east and to the turquoise sea to the west. To change money, there were no banks or ATMs, just a mobile exchange van which parked each evening outside the Nid and Ying (now Wood and Silk) shop. A lasting memory was standing at The Andaman tailors shop in the evening, to peer into the distance and just make out the lights at Jai, twinkling in the darkness. It was only on our second visit that we made the long walk up the hill to sample the Penang Gai. Today, this stretch of La On is completely developed, with the two storey Nang Thong City Plaza dominating the skyline. A multitude of clothes and souvenir shops fill every available space until you reach the Town Plaza and The Everyday Kitchen Restaurant around a mile away. The multi lane highway through town is now busy with both passing and visiting traffic. Also today there’s the presence of the mobile Police Station with its row of policemen relaxing outside, just opposite the Nang Thong Supermarket. Up to last year all we saw was one policeman, at the Songkran parade.
In 2003, one souvenir shop owner told me of her plans to open another two shops in the area, her eyes were full of optimism as the area was starting to prosper from the additional visitors. The owner of a tour company was equally optimistic and proud to have developed her business to a position of having nine minibuses. Today the shop keepers in La On are still keen to talk about their business plans and with the same level of optimism and enthusiasm as before. They often ask if we were visitors before the tsunami and seem genuinely pleased when we told them that we were.
From La On, traveling north as we did to reach our hotel, we only ever passed through Bang Niang. This village was gone in the blink of an eye as our driver usually pointed out where the new developments would be. We often wondered if the developments would spoil the area for when we returned.

Our hotel was located on the southern end of Bangsak beach. The Royal Coco Palm was the ultimate find! This was a boutique hotel, before the description had been invented and still the best hotel we have ever stayed in. Set on a glorious, deserted beach, with the spectacular hills in the background, it was the ultimate paradise. When we first arrived, the wow factor on entering the room was immense. The hotel had around 70 rooms, all individual villas, with traditional style exteriors, thatched roofs, outdoor showers and bathrooms to die for. With the personal service from the exceptional staff, this was without doubt, the best hotel in Thailand. The provision of a regular shuttle bus to La On meant we had the best of both worlds. Our only neighbours on Bangsak beach was a shrimp farm next door. There was usually a friendly local man, often sitting in a deck chair reading his paper and a mother and child who, on one occasion, took great delight in describing the huge jellyfish they had in their bucket, even though we had no common language. We often wonder where they are today.
On our latest visit, like other former guests, we went back to the site of The Royal Coco Palm. This is now one of the few sites in Khao Lak, for various reasons, awaiting redevelopment after the events of 26 December 2004. We stood at the spot where we used to have breakfast, looking at the remains of the pool to the sea beyond. Surprisingly, a peaceful and serene feeling came over us. The structures on the site had been mostly cleared in 2005 and was now alive with the sounds of birds and the warm breeze gently blowing through the new plants and trees. We put these feelings down to the happy times and fond memories we had of The Royal Coco Palm and the fact that many former employees are now friends. One of these friends told us ‘every day at The Royal Coco Palm was a happy day’.
Today, visitor numbers to Khao Lak seem approximately back to their pre-tsumani levels. Hotel rooms are still available in peak season as the total number of rooms has increased. There has, of course, been development in Khao Lak. No one will ever know if the results would have been the same if there had not been a tsunami. Bang La On is much busier, with a noticeable increase in families. The increase in demand for western cuisine has resulted in some, formerly exclusively, Thai restaurants now serving burgers and plates of chips. This westernization has also affected, in our opinion, the style of service.
Bang Niang today is more like La On was in 2003. The Police Boat monument somehow seems far smaller than it did in 2005 although its presence is emphasized at night when the festoon of lights are switched on. Bang Niang is also developing quickly. Evidence of drainage improvements now stretch back south the to start of La On and there are suggestions that the road will be widened here to.
As transport and information availability has improved, Khao Lak now effectively starts at the quaint Poseidon Bungalows and extends to the north of Bangsak Beach and the Morgan Holiday complex. For those seeking that ‘undiscovered’ feeling, the hotels to the north of Khao Lak are the ideal location. However, with the road developments to the north, both Koh Khao and Takuapa are set to prosper. The Khao Lak ’ripple’ effect will, no doubt, continue northwards as time goes on.
So, will we be going back to Khao Lak? Of course. Since 2003 we have made so many friends that it would be hard not to. The whole area is beautiful with pristine, uncrowded beaches and both land and marine national parks within easy reach. However, for us it’s the people who are Khao Laks’ principal asset. You’ll not find friendlier or better natured people anywhere else. Their optimism and courage in light of what they’ve been through is an inspiration and example to us all. Our next visit is already planned to what is now our second home.