I doubt you will be able to hire a scooter in Tulamben and there has been no such thing as motor bike insurance in Indonesia for about 3 or 4 years now. A car is your best bet. What I would do though is get a driver - there are plenty around, as they would take the heat (less heat being Balinese) in any accident. There are quite a few drivers around the Amed area, I am sure you will have no problem. I know a guy who lives in Sambirenteng (about an hour away) who likes jobs in the north as he otherwise has to ply the Nusa Dua area and does not get to see his family then. As a general rule, the guys who work the south will have better vehicles as they make more money. If you rent a car I suggest the people at the airport end of Jl Legian in Kuta, on the left hand side just before you hit the crossroads; I think they rent bikes as well. Make sure you have 10,000rp separate from the rest of your money in case the police stop you for an on the spot without receipt fine for a traffic offence you know you did not commit; then you can claim that is all you have on you.

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