thanks for the great suggestions, the Bali Spirit website was helpful. Now another question - I'm looking to stay budget to mid-range for lodging (preferably under $30 / night), I really just want something clean, quiet, cool (A/C not necessary but I'd like to be comfortable) and with good access to transportation (and beach for part of the time) and good food in the area ... what's your opinion on whether I should book lodging before I arrive versus wing it when I arrive? I have my first 8 nights all set (a little north and inland from Seminiak/Legian), but 11 days after that I don't know where I'll be staying. I'd like to spend some time in the east part of the island, perhaps around Candidasa and then go to Lombok, and I have an interest in doing some day hikes around one of the two peaks ... Still figuring all this out. Suggestions very much appreciated.